“Nordic cuisine is a bang—like a moin in the face.” At SANDglow in Husum, they have an original way of describing North Sea cuisine. On our culinary journey to the North Sea, we introduce you to classics like crabs, plaice, and rollmops, and also assess their sustainability.
This is the eleventh installment of our Culinary Journey series—a new destination every month.
The North Sea: Mudflats, dams, and seagulls
The North Sea is a unique natural paradise—rough, clear, and teeming with life. Located in northwestern Europe, it stretches from the Netherlands through Germany to Denmark. Here, wind and waves meet endless horizons, mudflats, and charming harbor towns where the rhythm of the sea sets the pace. As the tides ebb and flow, salt hangs in the air, and seagulls accompany fishing boats returning to port in the early morning.
For centuries, fishing has shaped the lives of coastal communities. Sometimes, freshly caught crabs, shrimp, plaice, or mussels end up on your plate straight from the boat—honest, authentic, and always tasting of the sea. Although North Sea cuisine is based on tradition, sustainability is becoming increasingly important. It’s not just about freshly caught fish anymore; it’s also about how and where it is caught and how to preserve the sea as a habitat.
It is precisely in this tension between tradition and the future, the familiar and sustainability, and people and nature that our culinary journey along the North Sea begins, featuring traditional dishes with history and new vegetable creations. Have you heard of kimchi, for example?
Enjoy plant-based cuisine on the North Sea coast
Although fish is probably the first thing that comes to mind when you think of North Sea cuisine, we want to start this article with something different. The North Sea coast is home to more than just grass and salt plants—it boasts an amazing variety of regional vegetables that taste delicious and represent a conscious, sustainable way of enjoying food. When you buy seasonal, local produce here, you score double points for taste and the environment.
#1 Queller — the salt of the coast
Samphire, also known as sea asparagus, grows on the coast and in salt marshes. This delicate green plant thrives in silty, salty soil and is a true North Sea native. It has a salty, slightly peppery taste and a texture similar to a mixture of spinach and green asparagus. Samphire can be enjoyed raw, blanched, or steamed, bringing the taste of the sea directly to your plate.
#2 Root vegetables – hearty and versatile
The nutrient-rich marshland along the coast provides optimal conditions for cultivating root vegetables. In addition to clay-soil potatoes, this area is also known for its rutabagas, purple and yellow carrots, and heart-shaped carrots, each with its own unique characteristics (you can see examples of these vegetables at the Schoof family’s organic farm).
#3 Cabbage – the green gold of Dithmarschen
Dithmarschen is the largest contiguous cabbage-growing region in Europe, a fact that becomes particularly evident during harvest season. The selection is vast: white cabbage, red cabbage, savoy cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, and kale. Many farms offer organic products.
You can find cabbage in processed forms, such as sauerkraut and red cabbage; however, the latest craze is kimchi, a Korean-style sauerkraut that should definitely be on your culinary list during your North Sea vacation!
#4 Potatoes — a classic from the north
Potatoes are also an integral part of the North Sea coast. Varieties such as Linda, Laura, and Princess are cultivated organically here. The potatoes from the nearby Lüneburg Heath are particularly popular, known for their intense flavor and status as a regional specialty.
Organic farming is important—particularly for the North Sea
Regional is good; regional plus organic is better. While regional vegetables save on transport and thus CO₂, organic farming ensures that no pesticides end up in the soil and, ultimately, the North Sea. These chemicals threaten the sensitive marine ecosystem, including the Wadden Sea. We explain this in more detail in our article, “Is the Wadden Sea in Danger?”
The good news is that the area used for organic farming along the North Sea coast is steadily increasing, as reported by NDR. However, most farming is still conventional.
Fish dishes (as sustainable as possible) on the North Sea coast
“The hearts of sailors never die,” explains the SANDglow in Husum, summing up the deep connection between Northern Germans and the sea. No wonder fish dishes have been an integral part of regional cuisine here for centuries. However, those enjoying fish caught in the North Sea should exercise caution.
“Demand determines what is offered for sale. Therefore, sustainable purchasing decisions can influence the environmental compatibility of fishing.” – Verbraucherzentrale Hamburg
#1: Haddock from the North Sea — a fish that has recovered
Since 2024, haddock (caught with hooks and lines) from the North Sea has been on the Consumer Advice Center’s Good Fish List. The reason? The population has recovered in some regions of the Northeast Atlantic, which is a positive sign for sustainable fishing.
However, this success is fragile, and the stability of the population will be reviewed again as early as 2026.
- Sample Tip: Try the North Sea haddock with mustard sauce
#2: North Sea shrimp – between tradition and challenges
The North Sea crab (Crangon crangon), which is actually a shrimp, is probably the best-known symbol of North Sea cuisine. For centuries, fishermen have gone out at dawn to catch these small creatures from the seabed.
Recipe tip from SANDglow:
Frisian crab soup – From Sea to Spoon
“The North Sea crab is the star of the coast. Crab soup was once a quick meal for fishermen’s wives, but today, it’s a signature dish for anyone who loves the authentic taste of the North Sea. Why do people eat it? Because it tastes like home—and like a salty breeze.”
However, crab fishing is also subject to criticism. According to the WWF, the small mesh size of the nets results in a high level of bycatch, including juvenile fish, rare species, and other bottom-dwelling organisms. Additionally, bottom trawls damage the seabed and endanger sensitive habitats, such as the sand coral reefs of the Wadden Sea. The WWF also reports that bottom trawls are linked to the absence of sharks and rays in the Wadden Sea and the disappearance of widespread sand coral reefs due to crab fishing.
Nevertheless, according to the MSC, some progress has been made:
- MSC-certified shrimp fishermen from the North Sea in Germany, the Netherlands, and Denmark have developed a joint management plan.
- New mesh sizes and escape grids are intended to reduce bycatch
Nevertheless, the issue remains controversial, especially regarding a potential ban on bottom trawling in marine protected areas by 2030, including the Wadden Sea. The potential impact on traditional shrimp fishing remains unclear..
#3 Plaice – a classic with character
According to the WWF, plaice from the North Sea is safe to eat because stocks have recovered significantly since 2008. However, the same rule applies: enjoy it mindfully rather than eating it without a second thought. Plaice can live for up to 50 years, which makes them vulnerable to overfishing. If you choose to eat it, pay attention to quality and origin, and consider it a real treat rather than a quick bite.
Recipe tip from SANDglow:
Finkenwerder Scholle – Fried with Love & BaconThis dish is named after the Hamburg district of Finkenwerder and has long been a favorite on the North Sea coast. Plaice are plentiful here—this flatfish loves the mudflats. The highlight of the dish is the combination of tender fish and crispy bacon. In the past, this was a way to add value to every catch; today, it is a culinary cult favorite.Why do people eat it? Because it’s simply amazing—fatty, salty, and satisfying. It’s like a “moin” in the face.
#4 Herring — Is it still okay to eat North Sea herring?
Opinions differ on this matter. According to the Hamburg Consumer Advice Center, herring from the North Sea should no longer be consumed. Stocks are expected to decline significantly in 2024 and 2025 due to overfishing. However, herring is considered a prime example of sustainable consumption because it reproduces quickly, lives in large shoals, and is low on the food chain.
This is precisely why it is an important part of the ecosystem — “a central food source for birds, porpoises, seals, and larger fish,” according to the Consumer Advice Center. If herring disappears, it will affect the entire marine ecosystem.
The WWF paints a slightly different picture. Currently, it still considers North Sea herring to be an acceptable choice because the autumn spawning stocks are healthy. However, the WWF also warns that stocks could decline in the future due to weak offspring cohorts. The WWF highlights the positive aspect of the selective fishing method, which results in hardly any bycatch.
The discussion about herring exemplifies how complex sustainable fish consumption has become. Above all else, what is needed today is awareness, balancing tradition and responsibility.
Herring is traditionally eaten in three ways on the North Sea coast:
- Fresh (green) herring, fried or smoked
- Matjes, young, mild herring – especially popular in early summer
- Rollmops or Bismarck herring, pickled in vinegar, often served as a side dish with hearty meals such as Labskaus or fried potatoes
Recipe tip from SANDglow:
Labskaus – Seaman’s Survival Fuel
Labskaus is a true harbor staple. In the old days, there were no fresh vegetables at sea, so sailors mashed salted meat with non-perishable ingredients. This red concoction may look strange, but it’s very nutritious. Serve it with a rollmop—herring brings salt back to the soul. Why do people eat it? Because North Frisians know what keeps you going in the cold wind — and because sailors’ hearts never die.
Labskaus is a traditional stew made from potatoes, beef, and beets — hence its distinctive pink color. It is traditionally served with a fried egg and a rollmop.
Matjes herring, housewife style – Classic with a Creamy Twist
Matjes is a particularly tender type of young herring that is a seasonal hit in the region. Incidentally, the name “Hausfrauenart” (housewife style) comes from the fact that people used to make it with whatever they had on hand: apples, onions, and cream. The result? The perfect combination.
Why do people eat it? Because the North Sea is rough yet soft, at least in terms of taste.
A sustainable culinary journey to the North Sea: Personal recommendations from the editorial team
Recently, our colleague Mara from the Green Pearls® team visited the North Sea and the SANDglow location in Husum. Her conclusion? Husum is full of surprises! The small port town has a lot to offer in terms of cuisine, even for those who want to eat consciously, regionally, or vegan.
At SANDglow, you can start your day sustainably with a modern coffee machine that not only dispenses cow’s milk foam, but also oat milk at the touch of a button. Mara writes in her sustainability check of plant-based drinks that this is her personal preference.
For dinner, Mara went to Alex Kitchen, where fresh, seasonal ingredients are combined with creative ideas. For coffee, she went to HafenKaffee Husum, a cozy place right on the waterfront that doesn’t use disposable cups. You can only get your cappuccino (with oat milk, of course) in a reusable cup or bring your own.
Husum shows that sustainable enjoyment on the North Sea is no longer a niche topic, but rather a way of life that goes well with a breath of sea air.
So: Have fun on the North Sea—discovering, enjoying, and traveling consciously!
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