Would you eat meat grown in a laboratory? I almost did for this article, but then I decided against it. Chefs from sustainable hotels and restaurants see better alternatives to meat consumption. Read on to learn more about the supposed “meat of the future” and whether plant-based alternatives might be the better solution.

What is cultured meat?

In vitro meat, also known as cultured meat, cell culture meat, or lab-grown meat, is obtained from stem cells, eliminating the need to kill animals. Prof. Dr. Petra Kluger, who specializes in the cultivation of animal and human tissue in a laboratory setting at Reutlingen University, explains the process to TÜV Nord:

“A small piece of tissue is taken from a living animal, and the stem cells are extracted from it. These cells are then multiplied in a bioreactor using a ‘nutrient medium’ and grow into a large mass with the help of a ‘support structure’ (e.g., chitin or collagen). This meat can then be used for burgers, nuggets, or ravioli filling, for example.”

In the early days of research, only muscle tissue was used; now, however, fat tissue is also being grown in labs, which, according to Kluger, significantly contributes to achieving the right meat flavor.

Where can I try in vitro meat?

Singapore was the first country to allow the sale of lab-grown meat. Cultured meat has been available there since 2020 (and was recently classified as “halal“). Licenses have been available in the US since 2023. However, a counter-movement has been formed there, and bans have already been imposed by some US states.

Other countries where you can try in vitro meat include Israel, Australia, and Hong Kong. Many other countries (e.g., China, Thailand, and South Korea) are currently discussing permission. In Europe, the Netherlands permits “tastings” but not commercial sales. Italy has banned both sales and production. Ultimately, however, both countries will have to comply with EU law.

US restaurant serving lab-grown meat

China Chilcano, a restaurant owned by chef José Andrés in Washington, DC, is one of the few places offering cultured meat. TV journalist William Brangham visited the restaurant and tried cultured chicken skewers (marinated overnight). On PBS News Hour, he reported that they were “delicious.”

What does cultured meat taste like?

The simple answer: it tastes like meat. According to Professor Petra Kruger and various journalists and testers, you wouldn’t notice any difference (if you didn’t know). However, in vitro meat is currently mainly suitable for use in dishes such as pasta fillings or chicken nuggets.

Is cultured meat more sustainable?

Compared to conventional meat production, probably. However, the technology still needs further development. The advantages are obvious, though:

• No animals need to be slaughtered.
• Fewer animals need to be kept. (Few stem cells produce a lot of mass.)
• The need for pastureland will decrease.
• In the long term, the need for feed production will also decrease, although the cells still require food energy to grow.
• According to one study, cultured beef has a global warming potential that is up to 80% lower than conventionally produced beef. However, it could also be 26% higher if you compare the equipment, electricity costs, and laboratory feed to those of a barn animal at the current time.

“Cultured meat is not necessarily good for the climate”

Professor Ned Spang of UC Davis in California told PBS News: ‘You can’t just assume that cultured meat is good for the environment.’ Calculations by UC Davis show that lab-grown meat is not yet really more sustainable due to the currently very high energy consumption. This intensive energy consumption comes from the machines and from ‘feeding’ the cells (he cites glucose as an example, which has a significant carbon footprint).

Conclusion: For cultured meat to be considered sustainable:

• Production must be technically optimized.
  Machines must run on renewable energy.
  The “feeding” of the cells must be optimized.

Currently, cultured meat is undoubtedly more harmful to the climate than plant-based products such as tofu, seitan and legumes. Even after process optimisation, this is likely to remain the case.

Would vegan chefs use lab-grown meat in their cooking?

As part of the Green PearlsⓇ network of sustainable hotels and businesses, we work with chefs committed to sustainability and have discussed cultured meat with them.

Aggeliki Charami is the vegan chef at the Paradiso Pure.Living Vegan Hotel, the OMNIA Restaurant, and the LA VIMEA Vegan Hotel. She recently received 17 out of 20 Gault&Millau points and was voted one of the 50 best chefs in South Tyrol. Charami believes that plant-based cuisine will be “at the center” of the “future of food.”

“I am fully committed to plant-based cuisine, so I don’t use cultured meat in my kitchen. However, I am closely following the technology because it has the potential to reduce animal suffering. If it becomes ethical and sustainable, I would consider using it, but plant-based cuisine will always be at the core of my work.” – Aggeliki Charami

By the way, her favorite meat alternative is koji (a Japanese mold that is used to ferment rice or soybeans, for example, and gives them an umami flavor). According to the team at LA VIMEA, tempeh is particularly popular with their guests.

Tempeh production

EXCURSUS: Tempeh: Fermented plant power instead of meat

Tempeh is made from cooked and peeled whole soybeans fermented with a natural mold (Rhizopus oligosporus). During fermentation, the beans combine to form a firm “cake” with a nutty, slightly earthy flavor and pleasant texture. Tempeh contains approximately 18–20 grams of protein per 100 grams (slightly less than chicken breast, which contains 22–24 grams, and beef, which contains around 26 grams).

“Plant-based cuisine doesn’t require meat substitutes.”

At the Hotel Korinjak on the Croatian island of Iz, they take it a step further, claiming that good food doesn’t require meat or meat substitutes.

 “We do not use processed meat substitutes or imitations. Our cuisine is based on an abundance of plant-based ingredients, such as grains, legumes, vegetables, herbs, seeds, and local olive oil. We believe that real nutrition doesn’t require imitation.” – Hotel Korinjak

Although they have adapted some Croatian classics to be meat-free, they are not interested in cultured meat whatsoever. “It simply doesn’t align with our values of simplicity, local production, and minimal environmental impact.”

Interest in lab-grown meat — but with clear principles

Chef Matthias Hinteregger of My Arbor, with whom we recently spoke about sustainable cuisine in South Tyrol, offers his guests several plant-based alternatives, including lentil Bolognese and homemade ravioli with an herb filling.

My Arbor is observing the development of lab-grown meat “with interest.” However, the restaurant’s philosophy remains regional, fresh, sustainable, and conscious. Lab-grown meat only fits into the concept under very specific conditions.

At SANDnature on the Baltic Sea, the thinking is global, and sustainability is implemented in line with the Sustainable Development Goals. Regarding global warming and the growing population, “both meat substitutes and cultured meat are seen as good alternatives.” However, cultured meat is “still a long way from being sustainable or applicable on a global scale.”

Less meat, more awareness

In general, our Green PearlsⓇ partners are moving toward using less meat. At the Canvas & Orchids Retreat in Cambodia, where you can enjoy spectacular floating tent accommodations on the river, the chefs demonstrate that Cambodian cuisine can be both authentic and naturally low in meat.

At the ADLER Spa Resort SICILIA, head chef Giuseppe Schimmenti experiences the effects of climate change firsthand in the Mediterranean, right outside the hotel. Schimmenti particularly loves fish and seafood and recommends dishes with offal, such as stigghiola.

As a guest, you will always find vegetarian and vegan dishes integral to the buffet and menus — they are “much more than mere alternatives.”

There has been no experience with cultivated meat yet. Currently, the focus is on using only meat from the immediate vicinity and from species-appropriate animal husbandry.

“Lab-grown meat is a no-go, and so is vegan sausage.”

Ursula Wagner, the hostess at the Gerbehof nature resort on Lake Constance, has a clear stance:

“In my opinion, meat substitutes are out of the question. It’s better to eat high-quality meat from local, organic farms or game from nearby hunts. Meat doesn’t have to be eaten daily, but should be savored.”

However, she condemns not only cultivated meat but also “cheap meat” and meat products, such as sausage—including vegan sausage. “When it comes to vegan sausage, everyone should just take a look at the list of ingredients,” Ursula says. Her approach is clear: no chemicals in food!

The food of the future and the question of how to provide for the world’s population

As you can see, cooking and eating are associated with individual preferences. Above all, however, there is a global problem: How can we feed the world? A highly readable article in The Ecologist reports on a London exhibition about the food of the future. According to the Natural History Museum in London, lab-grown meat, grasshoppers, and jellyfish will be used as sources of animal protein. Plant-based products, such as algae and cactus, will also end up on our plates. Solain, a protein produced by a Finnish food technology company that contains no animal or plant components, could be used as a powder to enrich various foods. It was briefly available as an ice cream additive at Fisco Restaurant in Singapore in 2023 but has since disappeared from the menu.

How will people get enough to eat in 2050?

According to current projections, the world population will reach nearly 10 billion by 2050. Meanwhile, growing prosperity, especially in the Global South, is fueling a desire for meat-heavy diets.

By 2050, demand for food will have increased by more than 50 percent worldwide, with demand for animal products rising by almost 70 percent, according to estimates from the World Resources Institute (WRI).

„Today, agriculture already uses nearly half of the world’s vegetated land, yet more than 700 million people suffered from hunger in 2023—around nine percent of the global population—and this figure is trending upward due to climate change and extreme weather.“ – WRI

A significant calorie deficit is expected by 2050.

WRI researchers warn: If food production efficiency remains at current levels, a massive calorie deficit will occur by 2050 that could only be offset by drastic measures. In the worst-case scenario, this would entail large-scale deforestation, significant species loss, and greenhouse gas emissions surpassing the Paris climate targets—even if all other emissions ceased.

Clearly, “business as usual” is not an option—the food system of the future must be reimagined. Three approaches to achieving this goal are giving up meat, eating meat alternatives, and eating lab-grown meat.

Would you eat lab-grown meat?

Now that you’ve read the entire article, what do you think? I wanted to try it, and so did my son. “For science, Mom!” My husband, on the other hand, refused from the beginning. Nevertheless, he drove me to a butcher shop in Jerusalem that, according to Google, was the only one in the city to carry cultured meat. The shop itself was strange. It was on the other side of town and only open on Thursdays from 1 p.m. to 2 a.m. In the end, we asked five of the estimated twelve employees. They all said that only meat from animals slaughtered in the traditional manner was sold there. Whether that’s a good thing or a bad thing, I’m not sure. In any case, we didn’t buy any meat.

Save the article on Pinterest.